In the travel-writing tradition that
made Paul Theroux's reputation, Dark
Star Safari is a rich and insightful
book whose itinerary is Africa, from
Cairo to Cape Town: down the Nile, through
Sudan and Ethiopia, to Kenya, Uganda,
and ultimately to the tip of South Africa.
Going by train, dugout canoe, "chicken
bus," and cattle truck, he passes
through some of the most beautiful — and
often life-threatening — landscapes
on earth.
This is travel as discovery and also,
in part, a sentimental journey. Almost
forty years ago, Theroux first went
to Africa as a Peace Corps volunteer
teacher in the Malawi bush. Now he stops
at his old school, sees former students,
revisits his African friends. He finds
astonishing, devastating changes wherever
he goes. "Africa is materially
more decrepit than it was when I first
knew it," he writes, "hungrier,
poorer, less educated, more pessimistic,
more corrupt, and you can't tell the
politicians from the witch doctors.
Not that Africa is one place. It is
an assortment of motley republics and
seedy chiefdoms. I got sick, I got stranded,
but I was never bored. In fact, my trip
was a delight and a revelation."
Seeing firsthand what is happening
across Africa, Theroux is curious and
wittily observant, and his readers will
find themselves on an epic and enlightening
journey.